Native American history in the area is complex. Although Captain Jack, or Kintpuash, favored a peaceful solution to the difficulties they experienced on the reservation, others within the tribe did not.  While Captain Jack negotiated, the war hungry members within the tribe gained in influence  until  Jack  acquiesced. The  Modocs murdered  General Canby  at  a  peace negotiation.

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It was believed the Americans would withdraw at the loss of their leader. Instead, war broke out. The Modoc tribe took on the US Calvary at Tulelake. Far outnumbered, the Modocs kept the Americans at bay hiding in the lava caves. The tribe was not unified in this conflict, and members began to surrender. Jack was able to hide from the American troops, but not from his own tribe. His location was discovered and finally, after several months of fighting, Jack surrendered. He was hanged for the murder of General Canby and the other negotiator at the peace talks.

NPS: Lava Beds National Monument.

The Lava Beds National Monument
located on the Oregon California border near Tulelake

Lava Beds National Monument in northern California is so named because of the many spectacular lava flows, not for their explosive nature, but precisely the opposite. Medicine Lake Crater, the largest shield volcano in the Cascade Mountains, erupted gently, producing flow after flow of basaltic lava, creating a shield shaped mountain: Mammoth Crater, supplemented by similar flows from Mammoth, Crater, Modoc Crater and Bearpaw Butte, resulted in the many lava caves in the Lava Beds National Monument.

The lava tube caves of Lava Beds Monument formed when molten lava on the top of lava flows cooled, insulating the molten lava below, allowing it to continue to flow, as a river of molten rock, until there was no more, the tubes drained, leaving behind lava tubes, or caves, often large enough for an adult human to walk through. Lava Beds National Monument is unusual not in the presence of these caves, but in the number: nearly 200. These tubes, or caves, can be visited today. Captain Jack's Stronghold where he and his tribe took refuge, Balcony, Skull, Merrill, Boulevard and Fern. Fern Cave, so named because of the ferns that grow inside the cave, as the cave itself creates a climate that supports this life, despite the arid, dry climate outside the cave. I have visited Fern Cave, at that time the ranger told us that many people did not respect the fragile balance of life within the cave, and that oftentimes they had found the ferns uprooted lying outside the caves. Hence the subsequent locked gates and guided tours. Recently I asked about tours, and was told that Fern Cave is closed indefinitely.

The 3/4 mile hike on Schonchin Butte, a cinder cone, leads to a panoramic view including Medicine Lake volcano, Mount Shasta, Mount McLoughlin in Oregon, the Clear Lake Hills, even the Warner Mountains to the east. All can be viewed and photographed. On a very clear day, the south rim of Crater Lake is visible. In the immediate vicinity of the butte, one can easily view lava flows and collapses in the rocky landscape.

For those interested, Tulelake National Wildlife Refuge and the lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge are nearby.

Skull Cave (pictured below): When discovered this cave held two human skeletons, bones of antelope & mountain goats, & bighorn skulls for which t he cave was named. It's a remnant of two large lava tubes, one on top of the other. The entrance is the largest in the monument. The lower level has an ice floor year round.

Those interested can view native petroglyphs inside the cave, as well as elsewhere in the monument.

Forward ~ Ashland Hills in Autumn.

Back ~ Mt Shasta photographed when heading southeast in California on Hwy 97.

Enjoy the Shasta Trinity area: Scenery, hiking, mountain biking, sightseeing: lava flows, mountains, waterfalls, rivers and more:
Travel Directions, Map and Scenery.

Skull Cave in the Lava Beds National Monument, California (pictured to the right).

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Travel Oregon and northern California while staying at Gathering Light ... a retreat
located in southern Oregon near Crater Lake National Park..

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Travel to Gathering Light ... a retreat from northern California, see Mt Shasta, Castle Crags, hike to waterfalls, along the Sacramento River and more: Travel Directions, Map and Scenery.

Directions to and Day Trips in either Oregon or California of about 100 miles from the retreat.

Little known Scenic Places near Crater Lake and the retreat: Directions, Map and Scenery.

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Contact Brad at Gathering Light ... a retreat.

The Sunset Log Cabin visiting (pictured above) at Gathering Light ... a retreat. Rustic simplicity, a place to "Just Be", Gathering Light is nestled on the banks of the river, surrounded by the Fremont Winema National Forest of southern Oregon, and not far from Crater Lake National Park.